RSPB Avocet Cruise on the Exe Estuary - Jan 2012

The Exe Estuary is a great place to watch birds all year-round but it can be particularly rewarding in winter with around 40,000 birds coming here on their winter migration. The Exe Estuary, at low tide is mainly a combination of sand and mud banks which are slowly covered as the tide comes in. The whole area is a vital feeding and resting area for this large numbers of birds. Excellent viewing is possible from the shoreline and Exminster marshes, however every year the RSPB arrange Avocet cruises onboard My Queen to experience one of nature’s most beautiful spectacles on one of the world’s great wetlands. Expert commentary on what to look for among these incredible flocks is also provided. This year is the 30th anniversary of the RSPB's Exe Estuary winter Avocet Cruises. They are called Avocet Cruises because every winter, flocks of up to 500 of these stylish black and white birds with slender curved bills overwinter on the Estuary and the boat provides an ideal viewing platform.

With this in mind we booked the cruise for 23^rd January 2012. It was scheduled to take 3-4 hours and would depart from Starcross at 12:15 on the low tide. We arrive in plenty of time to do a spot of birdwatching along the shoreline but it was soon time to park up at Starcross and take the short walk down to the boat. The RSPB volunteers were on hand to direct visitors to the boat and the boat crew were extremely helpful in ensuring everyone boarded safety.

We set off, on time, following a brief introduction from the captain who advised us that the boat might get grounded on the mud, but would quickly float off on the incoming tide! For those of a nervous disposition this was good news in that we were not going to be marooned. The mud clearly provides perfect bait for fisherman as well as food for birds.

 

The boat sailed around the Estuary in an anticlockwise direction and we located ourselves on the starboard side looking out towards the shoreline. We started heading out along the west shoreline towards the mouth of the Estuary. I think that there were at least 6 RSPB volunteers onboard and this proved vital as they spotted and called out the various birds from all directions, without them, we would have missed a few of the stars. The boat sails at a majestic slow pace to allow those onboard plenty of time to watch and photograph.

Almost immediately we were looking at Little Egrets, Red-Breasted Mergansers, Little Grebes and Great Created Grebes, Turnstones then suddenly a Goldeneye was spotted.

 

 The old muscle beds provided our first glimpse at the variety of birds that we might just see. On these beds were Brent Geese, Great Black-Backed Gull, Cormorants and Oystercatchers:As we sailed out towards the mouth of the Estuary, we passed a few fishing boats and muscle barges and were entertained by the kitesurfers and a windsurfer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The wind was whipping up the waves, ideal for the surfers and blowing the sand across the dunes. Our little boat was very cosy with tea and coffee available together with an enclosed area for those wishing to view without being exposed to the chilly wind. The sun popped out occasionally just to tease us with the prospect of full sun for the later part of this voyage of discovery. 

Then there came an interesting shout of Razorbill and Guillemot. These two had probably flown down the estuary from the nesting sites about 45 mins away as the crow flies:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The little Guillemot put on quite a show as the boat went forwards and backwards so that we all had an opportunity to get a good view. Plenty of preening and short dives to keep everyone's attention, a great little performer. The small crowd looking from the shore looked slightly bemused as our little boat manoeuvred around this bird. With the Guillemot now behind us, we drifted back to the middle of the estuary and we were treated to a good view of Lesser black-backed gull, sadly beyond the range of my 400mm lens. Also on the sand dunes were spotted Shelduck, Cormorants and Oystercatchers who seemed happy to fly above the wake caused by the boat.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One aspect of the cruise that is proving difficult to portray in this blog is the constantly changing view of the Estuary coupled with the birds either, in groups large and small, or on their own flying passed, over or around the boat. Just for this factor only the cruise is amazing value. I have spent many an hour sitting in hides to be rewarded with some fantastic views of British wildlife, but this is a whole new experience. Just to give a few examples of the magnificent sights the following pictures are of Red-breasted Mergansers, Dunlin, Black-headed Gulls, Grey Heron and Cormorant(again!) .......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were now sailing up towards Topsham. We had already seen the Avocets flying over the town (see first picture) and were hoping that the large flock had settled on the mud rather than round the back of the town on the Bowling Green marsh. We were fortunate, in that the birds could be spotted on the mud. As we approached the call of "Peregrine" was heard and this incredibly beautiful bird lifted off the mud and flew towards and over our boat. Exeter city is fortunate in that it has a breeding pair and this might have been one of those out hunting for its Sunday lunch!

 

This top predator had clearly unsettled the birds on the mud flats, so we were now about to witness a magnificent sight of large flock of Avocets and Black-tailed Godwits repeatedly taking to the air and returning to the mud. I should have changed to a wider angle lens but decided to stick with the 400mm lens.

 

This fantastic display must have lasted nearly 20 minutes, with the two flocks often combining before tumbling out of the sky and landing back on the mud flats.

 

 

So that covers the stars, but what about the supporting acts. Well on the mud flats we also saw Curlew, Sanderling, Grey Plover, Redshank, Greenshank, Bar Tailed Godwits and on the water were Teal and Wigeon.

 

 

As we approach Powderham Castle, we were nearly back where we started, but we could just see the large herd of Fallow Deer and a Buzzard flew over the estate. The grounds are also the home to a heronry which should be worth a separate visit in the spring. The cruise was almost over, the light fading when a large flock of Brent Goose took to the air from their feeding grounds ....

...... a perfect end to a wonderful day..........

 

and finally all the above would not have been possible without the RSPB, the onboard volunteers and the boat's crew. To all of these go my thanks and if anyone reading this fancies a trip on the Exe Estuary..... just do it, you won't regret it. Just to be fair, I believe that they are other organisations providing trips on the Exe Estuary which should also be considered.

My last picture is of the Glossy Ibis that has taken up residence on Exminster Marshes. A true star and an area well worth visiting either before or after an Estuary cruise..... thank you for reading this blog.